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Camping, Hiking, and Climbing Talk They don't call it the "Great Outdoors" for nothing - trail talk, camping tips, mountaineering, etc.

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Old 10-31-2007, 03:07 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Rozza View Post
And that stomach gripping, mind ripping, fear, the head game, when you put yourself beyond your limits, you've placed gear, but is it solid? your above it, but your in a rest spot, you can't move, your still strong, but you cant actually let go and move, you can see your moves, the next gear, but still you cannot move. You stay put, and fatigue, or you commit and see how good you, your gear, and your belayer really are. You remove your self from the climb, you centre yourself, your relax, you move, you commit. you place your next bit of gear, you climb on, you have no choice, no option of a down climb. You reach, its a small sloper, but the friction is good, you go to move your foot pops and you see your gear go past your face. but it held, and your belayer stopped the fall. you've never felt more alive.
Nice writing mate, it captures the essence of climbing quite well.
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Old 11-01-2007, 10:50 AM   #22
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I bet I could find them a position somewhere, prolly wouldn't need a lot of equipment either.
The less equipment the better. Don't they call that freestyling?
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Old 11-01-2007, 05:12 PM   #23
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The less equipment the better. Don't they call that freestyling?

I don't really get into the slang words, I just enjoy the sport.
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:04 PM   #24
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Haha I'm choosing to ignore the above thread hijack....

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Originally Posted by Rozza View Post
http://uclan.facebook.com/album.php?...c&id=283501011

climbing rocks, but i'm finding its not so much the climbing any more, its the rush of enomorphs and seratonine you get after a climb, i do feel proper stoned after a good session, so good.

and the sense of flow you get, when your working a boulder problem, or you leading a route on your edge, but every movement is clean, your in balance is perfect, and your placements are precise and bomb.

And that stomach gripping, mind ripping, fear, the head game, when you put yourself beyond your limits, you've placed gear, but is it solid? your above it, but your in a rest spot, you can't move, your still strong, but you cant actually let go and move, you can see your moves, the next gear, but still you cannot move. You stay put, and fatigue, or you commit and see how good you, your gear, and your belayer really are. You remove your self from the climb, you centre yourself, your relax, you move, you commit. you place your next bit of gear, you climb on, you have no choice, no option of a down climb. You reach, its a small sloper, but the friction is good, you go to move your foot pops and you see your gear go past your face. but it held, and your belayer stopped the fall. you've never felt more alive.

Climbing is fucking awesome when its good and when its poopants bad.

I'd rather have a bad day climbing than a great day in the office
Rory, you're awesome. I'll always take a bad day doing something active and exciting over a desk job anyday, so hopefully this conservation/science stuff pans out the way I hope it will so I'll never have to have your normal 9-5er cubicle desk type job ever again.
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Old 11-02-2007, 05:25 AM   #25
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Haha I'm choosing to ignore the above thread hijack....
Hey, you look good up against a pole, what else can we say
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:09 PM   #26
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oh yeah the pole:D

lets talk about the pole more
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:23 PM   #27
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oh yeah the pole:D

lets talk about the pole more

You don't talk about the pole, you talk about what's on and around the pole.


Laura, why choose to ignore, when you can join in the conversation. Tell us more about climbing.
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Old 11-02-2007, 11:00 PM   #28
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Laura, why choose to ignore, when you can join in the conversation. Tell us more about climbing
haha well actually, that particular pole is the firemans pole (which is quite wide & therefore difficult to get a grip on) but I did actually manage to climb it while shitfaced, lol and despite the fact that Teri kept making me laugh. The wall was within reach so I basically walked up the wall (haha barefoot) while holding on to the pole.

Oh, was that not what you meant?
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Old 11-03-2007, 04:43 PM   #29
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haha well actually, that particular pole is the firemans pole (which is quite wide & therefore difficult to get a grip on) but I did actually manage to climb it while shitfaced, lol and despite the fact that Teri kept making me laugh. The wall was within reach so I basically walked up the wall (haha barefoot) while holding on to the pole.

Oh, was that not what you meant?

I'm happy listening to any story you have to tell Laura.

...and God Bless those firemen and their wide poles.
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2009-2014: February - Mexico (Cancun x 3, Cozumel x 1, Mazatlan x 2

2014 : Europe: Norway, Denmark, Hungary, Czech Rep, Germany, France, England

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Old 02-03-2008, 05:02 PM   #30
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"on-sited"

Such a primitive word! We call it "flashed"

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^ Actually, hun they're 2 different words (yeah, I've been looking up terminology how cool am I?)

on-site flash or "flash"= climbing without looking at the route whatsoever before-hand or getting any advice from other climbers on how to do it and making it on your first attempt w/o "dogging" or resting at all

on-site= climbing after perhaps mapping out your path before hand or getting advice from someone who's done it before without rest
Sorry, I have to correct this now that I'm slightly older and marginally wiser.

Onsight - To lead a climb with no rests on gear or falls on your first attempt without pre-placing protection or draws. Minimal beta allowed.

Flash - To lead a climb on pre-placed gear with no rests on gear or falls on your first attempt. Soak up as much beta as you can.

That's my take on it. Beta levels are a bit of a grey area though.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:50 AM   #31
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oh boy, we're getting such good weather this past week, me and my mates have been out nearly everyday, its true lectures and work are taking a hit, but at time like this it's about priorities right?

so anyway, monday and sunday were probably the best for it, on sunday myself and two mates headed off to a place called castle rock, a superb south facing venue. it was pretty busy which was unfortunate, but we still managed to get plenty done, the most exciting part of the day was probably when i was on the crux of a VS 5b, it was getting a bit hairy, as each move was pretty much hold onto a crimp for dear life then move your feet along a crack line in order to get up over a bulge. Anyway i decided this would be a good point to place some gear, i find a crack, place my nut, seat my nut, then ka-boom the gear pops out, luckily i don't lose my balance, unluckily i let go of my nuts...

so theres no chance that i'm going to down climb, and very little chance i'm going to continue climbing above my gear (which i'm already 2 meters above). so at the time it was good idea to call out 'Take IN!! TAKE IN!' and pretty much let go, it turns out taking a 4 meter swinger ain't so bad, but i'm so, soooo glad my gear stayed in, otherwise me and the ground would be so close by now. anyway i got lowered down, got my nuts back, then got back on and did it, booyah.

Monday was awesome, me and two car loads of friends rocked on over to a place called headend Quarry, which was sick, we had the entire place to ourselves, so it was a chilled out day, climbing, smoking, acoustic guitar, sunshine and food. awesomeness.
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- Walter Bonatti, Italian climber.

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Old 02-19-2008, 04:16 AM   #32
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wicked story ror Miss ya dude
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GO CANADA!!!!

If you walk backwards, you'll find out that you can go forward and people won't know if you're coming or going.

Dream as if you'll live forever. Live as if you'll die today.
-James Dean

Countries I've Visited: Austria, Botswana, Canada, Costa Rica, Democratic Republic of the Congo, France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, Italy. Malawi, Mexico, Portugal, Rwanda, South Africa, Spain, Taiwan, Tanzania, Uganda, USA, UK, Vatican City, Zambia
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